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Interview With Celebrities: Sun Ruizhe, President Of China Textile Federation: Cooperation Creates Value, Integration Opens The Future
From November 20 to 22, the 2024 World Fashion Conference was held in Humen Town, Dongguan City, Guangdong Province. Sun Ruizhe, President of China Textile Industry Federation, delivered a keynote speech entitled "Cooperation creates value, integration opens the future". Now the full text will be published for readers.
Cooperation creates value, integration opens the future
Sun Ruizhe, President of China Textile Industry Federation
November 21, 2024
Clothes carry the way. Fashion brings trust and respect, which is a civilized dialogue; Clothing promotes understanding and cooperation, which is the language of the times. Through the ages, different countries and regions have learned from each other in the process of pursuing fashion and creating beauty, with textile and clothing as the link, promoting the integration and progress of global civilization and human welfare. At present, the world has entered a new period of turbulence and change. As a community of interests and a community of shared future, the global textile and clothing industry is facing the common test of sailing against the current and failing to advance is to retreat. Today, we gather in Humen to explore the beautiful power to create global common values and promote world harmony and common prosperity.
Take this opportunity to exchange some ideas with you.
1、 The global clothing industry has developed steadily, and Chinese clothing has made positive contributions
Industry integration, market connectivity, and cultural harmony, and the textile and clothing industry promote North South linkage and South South cooperation, are important participants and contributors in the construction of a community with a shared future for mankind.
1. Clothing industry is the basic guarantee for improving people's livelihood
The annual production capacity of global clothing exceeds 100 billion pieces; In 2023, the global market size will reach US $1.74 trillion. High quality and diversified supply meets the needs of human beings for a better life. Wide coverage and multi-level development create huge social and economic value. One out of every eight workers in the world is engaged in textile and clothing related work. Absorb employment, increase income, prosper the market, and ensure people's livelihood. In the poverty reduction of developing countries, industry highlights its value. Morocco has about 1900 textile enterprises, stabilizing the employment base of 175000 people; More than 4000 garment factories in Bangladesh provide more than 5 million jobs, and garment exports will account for more than 86% of its total exports in 2023; The average wage of Vietnamese textile and garment workers has reached US $300/month, higher than the world average of US $200/month. The development of textile industry clusters effectively drives the revitalization of China's rural areas and the development of ethnic areas.
2. Clothing industry is an important engine for industrial structure upgrading
As the "cradle of world industry", industry is an important starting industry for developing countries to realize modernization, promote industrialization and integrate into globalization. It is related to agriculture, industry and trade, and promotes the integration of three industries. Textile and clothing provide an important ladder for the transition of industrial structure from agricultural economy to industrial economy, from labor-intensive to technology intensive, and from closed system to open ecology. Integrating advanced manufacturing and high-end services, modern clothing system is an important form of industrial upgrading. A garment integrates material innovation, process innovation and equipment innovation; A brand condenses R&D design, capital operation and marketing management. More than 90% of Brand Finance 2024's list of the top 50 global apparel brands are from developed countries. Industry is deeply integrated with digital economy, content economy and experience economy to form a strong ability to extend ecology. Saudi Arabia, the "oil kingdom", regards fashion industry as the key field of economic diversification and transformation.
3. Clothing industry is the key carrier to promote the development of financing
From hanfu and sari to scottish skirt and arabian robe, as symbols of different civilizations, clothing is an important medium to show the national image and promote cultural exchanges. The circulation of textiles and clothing on the Silk Road has promoted the exchanges and mutual learning between the East and the West in religion, politics, society, science and art. In the digital economy and the global context, fashion trend has become a collective narrative, showing the characteristics of diversity and unity. Lululemon, which represents a healthy lifestyle, Patagonia, which embodies the mission of environmental protection, and Bosiden, which challenges the extremely cold scene, clothing has increasingly become the carrier of lifestyle and value proposition. The circulation of products promotes the identification of lifestyle and cultural concepts. As a medium to convey emotion and influence, clothing is also an important medium for cross-border brands to link consumers and enhance their influence. Visa strengthens its connection with young people through co branding with fashion designers.
Chinese clothing serves the global development in the opening up and is the backbone. China's annual production of clothing exceeds 70 billion pieces, which can provide about 8.75 pieces of clothing for each person in the world; In 2023, the export volume will reach 165 billion US dollars, accounting for 31.64% of the world. In the face of pressure, the industry will show a recovery growth trend in 2024. From January to September, the industrial added value of enterprises above designated size increased by 0.4% year on year, 9.2 percentage points higher than that of the same period in 2023; Operating revenue increased by 1.02% year on year, 9.15 percentage points higher than that of the same period in 2023; The total profit decreased by 2.62% year on year, 4.58 percentage points lower than that of the same period last year; The retail sales of clothing, shoes and hats, knitwear and textiles above designated size increased by 0.2% year on year; The total volume of clothing exports reached US $118.38 billion, down 1.3% year on year, 7.5 percentage points lower than the same period last year. High cost performance intermediate supply chain and advanced and applicable equipment technology help to build the global industrial ecology. In 2023, China's total export of yarn and fabric will be 77.9 billion US dollars, 6.7 times that of 2001; Export of textile machinery reached US $4.543 billion to 202 countries and regions; 4.32 million industrial sewing machines were exported. The spillover effect of innovation continues to increase. Chinese technology has strongly promoted the modernization of Benin's cotton planting and textile and clothing industries. The development of Chinese clothing plays an important role in poverty eradication and human rights protection, and is a strong promoter of the UN's sustainable development goals.
2、 To grasp the key variables facing the global apparel industry
At present, the world is facing multiple challenges, the momentum of economic recovery is weak, and consumption expectations are constrained. In October, the WTO reduced the growth of global commodity trade by 0.3 percentage points in 2025; The 28th ITMF survey shows that weak demand is the main challenge for the industry. Bain predicts that the global luxury market will slow down for the first time in 15 years in 2024, down 2% year on year. Geopolitics continued to deepen, unilateralism and protectionism spread, the fragmentation of the world economy intensified, and offshore manufacturing, onshore manufacturing, nearshore manufacturing, and friendly offshore manufacturing developed widely. Frontier technologies and future industries are accelerating to reshape their competitive advantages, and scientific and technological innovation is forming a subversive impact. Grasp the current situation, think in the structure, grasp the main contradictions, grasp the key variables, and maximize the comprehensive value of the industrial function.
1. Market pattern: spatial variable of industrial development
The global share of the eight developed countries and regions among the top ten countries in the world's clothing imports decreased from 88.7% in 2005 to 67.2% in 2023. The global South has accelerated its rise and its market has become more diversified. The proportion of China's clothing imports rose from 0.6% to 1.8%; Chinese consumers contribute 1/4 of the world's tax-free luxury consumption.
From the perspective of population structure, the market space lies in the continuously growing world population. By the mid 2080s, the global population will reach 10.3 billion. Low fertility and aging have spread from Europe and the United States to East Asia, urbanization has accelerated, and demographic transformation has promoted the transformation of consumption structure. At present, the size of the silver economy in the United States, Britain and Japan has accounted for more than 30% of GDP. Young consumer groups are pregnant with greater market space and vitality. In 2030, 75% of consumers in emerging markets will be between 15 and 34 years old. The compound annual growth rate of African clothing market will be 16.46% from 2022 to 2025. The changes in consumer groups and consumption concepts are bringing about changes in consumption structure and consumption patterns.
From the perspective of market form, the development of digital economy has brought about a more transparent and globalized market. It is predicted that the global e-commerce sales in 2024 will exceed US $6 trillion, with a year-on-year growth of 12%; The scale of cross-border e-commerce market will reach US $1.976 trillion. The rapid flow of information, efficient collaboration of logistics and high flexibility of supply have shortened the global fashion cycle and accelerated product iteration. At the same time, the homogenization trend is also intensifying. Product innovation based on different value propositions, lifestyles and activity scenarios is forming new market opportunities. Healthy consumption, green consumption, cultural consumption and experience consumption are booming. According to Euromonitor's prediction, the global sports shoes and clothing market is expected to grow from 395.5 billion dollars to 544 billion dollars from 2023 to 2028, with a compound growth rate of 7%. Luxury brands are also speeding up their layout. Loro Piana launched into the wild capsule series with strong outdoor functional wind; LV and DIOR launched skiing series to cater to the ice and snow economy.
Market pattern is the spatial variable of industrial development. We should consider the positioning and value of products, brands and industries in the market. Improve adaptability in the diversified and rapidly changing market, and find a breakthrough in "expanding the territory" and "intensive cultivation".
2. Green value: the constraint variable of industrial development
According to the United Nations report, only 17% of the 2030 sustainable development goals are progressing smoothly. The pressure of resources and environment has become a real challenge, and the development of artificial intelligence has brought new problems of energy consumption and water consumption. The scope and strength of green trade rules continued to expand. The Green Tax Tracking Report shows that 66 countries or regions around the world have launched more than 2000 sustainable incentive policies, more than 3000 green tax and tax exemption policies and 70 carbon pricing mechanisms.
Green consumption potential continued to release. The survey shows that 78% of the respondents intend to buy environmentally sustainable products; Chinese consumers are willing to pay a premium of 9%~15% for the concept of sustainability. The Global Data report predicts that the global second-hand clothing trade will account for 10% of the fashion market in 2024. Accelerate the capitalization of resources. In 2023, the trading volume of the global carbon market will reach 881 billion euros; The ongoing COP29 meeting has actively discussed global carbon trade. New value space is taking shape.
Under the pressure and opportunity, green transformation has become the key direction of the clothing industry. In 2024, BASF will reorganize its business structure with green as the core and establish a renewable raw material department; H&M announced that it would stop using native down by the end of 2025. The road of transformation is still tortuous. On the one hand, the green market needs to be cultivated, the technology needs to be mature, and the rules need to be improved. The lack of standards and abuse of concepts in practice lead to frequent "green drift". From June 2023 to June 2024, the number of high-risk "green" cases worldwide will increase by more than 30%. The anti ESG wave has intensified around the questioning of values, constraints and standards. More than 2/3 of the US legislatures will propose an anti ESG bill in 2023. On the other hand, green development has become a hot area of industrial competition and interest game. India, South Africa and Poland expressed concern about the impact and fairness of the EU CBAM. Green trade barriers are more subtle and flexible under the big power game. Some countries, based on short-term interests, play up the so-called "overcapacity", impose tariffs and prevent the application of green technology products such as new energy.
Green value is a constraint variable of industrial development. We should consider the boundary and extent of industrial development from the perspective of resource intensity and value creation. In the green upstream and downstream, we should uphold common but differentiated responsibilities, gather broad consensus, and promote the evaluation and practice of consistency, comprehensiveness and fairness.
3. Artificial Intelligence: Impact Variable of Industrial Development
AI is strengthening the technological substitution of human cognition, forming the "technological singularity" and hastening the birth of the "economic singularity". In the past two years, the amount of data generated by AI has exceeded the creation of mankind in the past 150 years; More than a quarter of Google's new computer code has been written by AI. AlphaFold 3 can predict all molecules in the protein database with atomic precision; GNoME has predicted 2.2 million new crystals, which is equivalent to the knowledge accumulation of nearly 800 years of human history. Integrating multiple scientific discovery paradigms, AI shows innovative potential in more complex scenarios. The integration of AI makes the manufacturing system begin to have the ability of independent perception, independent learning, independent decision-making and independent execution. Embodied intelligence and spatial intelligence change human-computer interaction and human-computer cooperation mode. Tesla Optimus has rapidly expanded its capabilities and has entered the factory to perform tasks. McKinsey expects that by 2030, more than 20% of manufacturing tasks will be completed by AI and robots.
Intelligent transformation has a structural impact on overall labor productivity. The newly elected Lighthouse Factory has increased labor productivity by an average of 50% through digital solutions. Boston data shows that the American manufacturing industry has introduced AI and automation technology, and the production cost is expected to reduce by 18% by 2025. The future competitive advantage of the industry will come from the integration of talents and computing power. The gap between AI capabilities is forming the gap between industrial capabilities. Among them, algorithm, data and computing power are the key to AI flywheel effect, and developed economies have taken the lead. On the other hand, it seems that the "silicon screen" is coming. AI has formed new problems such as copyright ownership, information cocoon room, data security, algorithm bias, false information, and widening the development gap. Its application in military, financial systems and other fields may pose catastrophic risks.
AI is an impact variable of industrial development. We should grasp the systematic changes and risks brought by AI from a forward-looking perspective and the concept of responsibility, and guide the exploration of AI application in the industry in the process of stability and progress.
3、 New Quality Practice of Chinese Clothing Industry
Focusing on the positioning of science and technology, fashion and green, China's garment industry is accelerating systematic innovation and forming a rich exploration of developing new quality productivity.
1. Technology driven, creating hard core products
Based on new materials and new processes, we will build a cost-effective, multi-functional, high-performance, intelligent and green product system. The application of new materials such as graphene, bio based fiber, carbon fiber, aramid fiber, flexible fiber battery and so on has promoted the product's sunscreen, flame retardant, wear-resistant, conductive, antibacterial, discoloration, chemical prevention and other properties to be significantly improved. Govan, which has 161 patents, relies on the advantages of fabric materials, heat storage lining, sealing process, anti-bacterial technology and other advantages to create the ultimate single product, and has dominated e-commerce platforms for three consecutive years. Anta Group was selected as one of the top 50 innovative enterprises in China in 2024 Forbes by virtue of scientific and technological innovation and leadership. Storm Armor, a submachine suit equipped with "Anta Film Aerovent", achieves excellent waterproof, moisture permeability and soft breathability. Intelligent wearable products have developed rapidly. Report Linker predicts that the global smart textile market will grow to US $9.3 billion in 2026. China's patent applications in the field of intelligent wearable textiles have accounted for 45% of the world's total. Intelligent temperature control textiles, shape memory textiles and color changing textiles have been continuously cultivated and promoted, and a wealth of practices have been formed in terms of non impact detection, all-round protection, precise treatment and scientific rehabilitation. For example, Donghua University has developed an integrated intelligent wearable device for hyperthermia monitoring.
2. Scene driven, building rich categories
The excavation and extension of scenes drive product category innovation. Sun proof clothing, home clothes, shark pants, sweating clothes, new products focusing on life details and functional appearance have become an important track for brand incubation. For example, women's intimate clothing brand ubras has insight into needs, concerns about feelings, and created products such as size free, soft support, and muscle bottoms, which have won consumers' favor. From sports fashion to casual formal clothes, from travel clothes to sleep suits, from ice and snow equipment to pet clothing, product innovation is integrated into lifestyle changes. Sports and outdoor scenes are more vertically subdivided, and niche projects such as hiking, camping and cycling are emerging. Kaile Stone develops professional outdoor products around mountaineering and rock climbing, with an increase of 90% year on year across all channels in 2023. Biyin Lefen aimed at golf style, and its ten year revenue increased five times, with a gross profit rate of 79.08%. The boundary between outdoor sports and urban life is gradually blurred. Tennis skirt has become a popular fashion this summer; GXG interprets the change of men's clothing with the theme of relaxed commuting. Medical protective clothing, racing clothing, radiation protective clothing, and professional clothing have obvious trends of intelligence, functionality, and personalization. Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology has developed shooting competition clothes with high hardness, high elasticity and slow response; Dalian Tech launched the world's first marine emergency protective clothing with outstanding performance such as floating, fire resistance and impact resistance.
3. Quality and efficiency driven, developing advanced manufacturing
Develop advanced manufacturing in the direction of intelligence, green and integration. Intelligent manufacturing has become the main technical route. Intelligent equipment such as fully formed computerized flat knitting machine and digital printing machine can significantly improve production quality and efficiency. Personalized customization and service-oriented manufacturing are booming. Dayang Group independently developed the industrial Internet platform for garment customization to achieve the fastest 3-day clothing; Special Step (Anhui) intelligent factory has realized 100% digitalization of garment production process, increased efficiency by 20%~25%, increased output by 30%, and reduced personnel demand by 50%. From energy system, material system, production process to management mode, the industry accelerates the transformation of green manufacturing in the whole life cycle. Hailan Home cooperates with Kaisai Biology, Sumeida Textile, Zhejiang Beauty, Anta and Shenghong to create green products from fiber. Black Peony Group created a new environmentally friendly process of Air dyeingTM indigo dyeing, effectively reducing water consumption by 95%, electricity consumption by 65%, and steam consumption by 70%; Since 2021, SHEIN has realized nearly 9000 tons of water saving in the production of denim fabric by using cold transfer printing denim technology. Gretzer Group handles tens of thousands of tons of second-hand clothes every year, providing more than 660 million pieces for the world in total; The online second-hand product trading platform SHEIN Exchange was launched in Europe and the United States. Strengthen sustainable management. The LCAplus platform of China Textile Federation carries out green assessment on the whole life cycle of textiles. Future manufacturing exploration is accelerated. Intelligent robots, biological manufacturing, nano manufacturing, additive manufacturing, laser manufacturing, etc. show their potential. Donghua University uses transgenic technology to make bulletproof clothing from high-strength spider silk spun by silkworms; Hongdu and MISUITY Mishuti use 3D printing technology to realize complex clothing design.
4. Feature driven, strengthen Chinese style
Chinese culture, Chinese design, Chinese materials and Chinese crafts are transforming into Chinese fashion style and aesthetics. Ordos cashmere, Nanchong silk that enables rural revitalization and Xinjiang apocynum with ecological value that drives herdsmen to become rich are being used in high-quality products with distinctive Chinese characteristics and value proposition. As the defender of Xinjiang long staple cotton, Yida Textile promotes the improvement of people's livelihood in Xinjiang with the development of the whole industrial chain from cotton planting to clothing. From buckles, cloud shoulders, embroidery, tassels, to Song brocade, fragrant cloud gauze, horse face skirts, the new Chinese style has become a new trend of fashion. The modernity, practicality and life style of textile intangible cultural heritage are constantly improving. Shangjiukai launched a new series of Gaoding "Zhuangzhou Dreams of Butterflies" to show the beauty of harmony between man and nature with Song brocade technology; Inspired by "porcelain", Li Ning created a new autumn and winter 2024 series with oriental aesthetics and multiple outdoor functions. Chinese cultural creativity, such as film and television, literature, animation and games, has built a new traffic inlet and value source for Chinese fashion. Games such as Ruyuan have successfully created an ecological environment where clothing industry, content and cultural tourism industry coexist. The big model platform is redefining design innovation and value output. Designed by China Textile Information Center DPI Space and Lingdi Style3D empowering textile enterprises, Boundless AI creates the first model of Song Yun Han style clothes.
5. Channel driven, extending brand ecology
The transformation of fashion communication system has accelerated, and social media has become the source of fashion. The platform economy promotes extensive market connectivity. Content e-commerce, live broadcasting e-commerce, cross-border e-commerce and other online and offline businesses are connected to supply and demand, and white brand and online celebrity brands emerge in large numbers. In 2023, Diaoyin e-commerce clothing will contribute 69% of the incremental share of the whole network; From 2019 to 2023, the export volume of China's cross-border apparel e-commerce increased from 145.5 billion yuan to 487 billion yuan. The development of AI and digital people is comprehensively reshaping market operation, e-commerce shopping guide, customer service, supply chain management and other links.
With supply chain empowerment and localization innovation, Chinese clothing has entered a new stage of going to sea. Bosideng and Anta accelerate global M&A and integration of resources; Set up branches in an international layout such as Chun, Jiangnan cloth clothing, and the new Chinese cheongsam brand SenseByMei. Cross border e-commerce such as Shein and Temu is popular overseas. In depth dialogue with local culture, Sima customized Ramadan for the Middle East market and launched the Saudi National Day capsule. The supply chain accelerates its sailing. Small and medium-sized enterprises such as Shajuan Cashmere and Haining Moussa began to enter the global luxury core supply chain; Shengze, Keqiao and other clusters frequently appeared in the International Fashion Week; Shein is promoting the "China 500 Cities Industrial Belt Going to Sea Plan".
Fashion shows have become an important ecology for the growth of local designers and brands. The flow and volume of China International Fashion Week are increasing. China International Fashion Week in Spring and Summer 2025 gathers nearly 260 brands and more than 400 designers from 6 countries, effectively integrating high-quality resources such as industry platforms, industrial clusters, brand enterprises, etc. Fashion weeks were held in Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Dalian and other places with high density and frequency. CHIC 2024 (autumn) gathers 821 enterprises and more than 20 clusters/markets to become an innovative integration platform for the clothing industry supply chain.
4、 Create a bright future for the global apparel industry with the power of integration and beauty of harmony
Humanity is a community of shared future. To grasp global opportunities and deal with global problems, only integration, accommodation and integration can make us live forever, and only peace, harmony and harmony can make us beautiful and common. Let's take this meeting as an opportunity to gather the strength and wisdom of all, promote the implementation of the three major global initiatives with the power of fashion, and open a bright future.
First, adhere to practical cooperation and promote industrial prosperity.
Integrate global resources, share development opportunities, promote global integration of products, production capacity, brands and capital, and create a more resilient and high-quality global apparel industry system. Give full play to their comparative advantages and build a rich and diversified industrial ecology according to local conditions. Deepen the exchange and cooperation of international fashion based on the platform of conferences, exhibitions and shows.
Second, we should adhere to innovative development and upgrade the industrial level.
Take innovation as the guide, promote the upgrading of high-end industries, and improve advanced manufacturing capacity. Integrate science, technology and culture, explore multiple needs and scenarios, and develop new materials, new products and new categories; To explore AI driven fashion design, we should not only highlight local characteristics, but also be inclusive, and enrich fashion connotation in exchange and mutual learning.
Third, we must adhere to openness and inclusiveness and build common values.
Strengthen cooperation in the fields of social responsibility and ESG, and promote the industry to make greater contributions to promoting sustainable development in the world. Harmony but difference, based on the industrial characteristics, development stages and interest demands, the principle of common but differentiated responsibilities is the cornerstone to build a global cooperation system that reflects equal rights, equal opportunities and equal rules.
"Single silk does not form a thread, and single tree does not form a forest". China's textile and clothing industry is willing to work together with global partners in the future.
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