Paris Digital Men'S Wear Week: Physical T-Stage Goes Far Away, Short Video Creative Rescue

This week's fashion epidemic in Paris has brought more changes, including the loss of traditional fashion. However, this level of storm, obviously not enough to let the top brand designers disorderly, because there is a "digital" concept. It is infiltrating our life with unprecedented high frequency, and has become the plan B after the absence of entity fashion week. Short video, live broadcast, real-time streaming media and other digital communication modes also strongly prove that the new mode is more suitable for the daily life of consumers, more creative and more in line with the concept of sustainable development than the old t-show.

On July 13, the first Paris digital men's wear week came to an end. There are no star guests, no fashion magazine editor in chief, and no media swarming in. During the week, several fashion brands intensively released short videos of about 10 minutes on the Internet. By making full use of their own digital technology and brand fashion design concepts, they have brought a series of distinctive spring and summer men's wear short films for audiences all over the world 。 Perhaps the concept of fashion week has suddenly changed from the competition of fashion design to the competition of short video creation of brands. However, while lamenting the magic of technology and the Internet, it also allows us to more clearly touch the "core" of the fashion industry, which has nothing to do with gimmicks, marketing or competing for glamour. Only with creativity can we move forward steadily.

LV: mountains do not turn, water turns, people do not walk "show"

Virgil abloh's ideas never let us down. The Paris spring and summer men's wear series is the work released by Louis Vuitton in the first season after the epidemic. As the creative director of men's wear, he chose a new way of release - "short video + online live + offline Tour Fashion Show" to show the new season of fashion series.

On July 10, Louis Vuitton released a trailer series with "message in a bottle," featuring cartoon monsters of different shapes created by fashion artist Reggie know. From then on, they started a journey from Paris to Shanghai, where the founder of the real world works. These are the sites selected by Louis Vuitton for the second half of this year, when the show will be broadcast globally without distinction, and all viewers can enjoy the new fashion release online at the same time.

"We know that people can't travel, so we're not going to let people travel long distances to see their clothes, but to make them travel to people," Michael Burke, global president and CEO of Louis Vuitton, said in an interview with WWD Since the fashion show has been "free from the shackles of the fashion industry", he has been able to remove the shackles of the fashion industry.

The epidemic has slowed down the pace of the whole fashion industry and given designers more time to reflect. In addition to establishing a new paradigm for show shows, Virgil abloh has also further introduced sustainable development initiatives to help the development of circular fashion with the design features of "no difference in seasons" and "new materials". In an interview with WWD, he revealed that the spring / summer 2021 men's collection includes 30 shapes made of new materials, 25 shapes made of recycled materials, and 25 styles from autumn and winter 2020. Vuitton will create a new product line by using a new product line that has been redesigned and redesigned by Vuitton.

The first stop of Louis Vuitton container for "little monsters" will land in Shanghai on August 6, which shows the brand's expectation and ambition for the Chinese market. Although the film does not reveal the specific fashion style, but the combination of virtual and real film shows the youth, vitality and inclusiveness, which makes people wait for its new series which is about to open its mysterious veil.

Herm è s

In contrast to Louis Vuitton's elaborate design and preparation, herm è s's short video chose a more natural setting for the show - the show's Pantin Workshop on the outskirts of Paris. A camera swam in the background of the show, with the camera moving with the model. Just like before each show starts, the models naturally talk, take selfies, make-up, throw mobile phones to play, and the staff are busy around. Through the film, the audience can not only see each new set of ready-made clothes displayed on the model, but also show the details behind the runway without reservation. Every scene is like a live broadcast. In the traditional fashion show, people can only pay attention to the show environment and the crowd. But under the lens of herm è s, what was missing in the previous fashion shows: simple and frank details, and the intimacy between people, have been made up one by one.

Herm è s is located in the Pantin Workshop on the outskirts of Paris. IC photo

V é ronique nichanian, who has been artistic director of herm è s men's wear for 32 years, is 66 years old. And this time the series is as quiet as she is. This season's men's wear series is mainly composed of soft and quiet light blue, light green and gray, with stripes and simple printing. The details are embellished with deer skin or calf hide, showing luxury in simplicity.

In the past, the heart of herm è s fashion can only be found when you look back at the show or when you make a one-on-one appointment after the show. However, in the short video, V é ronique nichanian directly instructs the photographer to come closer, taking the stripes on the sleeve of the shirt and the leather piping stitched on the sweater, so that the audience can intuitively feel the freshness of the shirt texture and the softness of the leather touch. "If I miss the fashion show, I'm sure the viewers will miss the fashion show. But through the video, people can better appreciate and understand why V é ronique nicahanian's design is so popular. "

In the past, V é ronique nichanian had to prepare about 40 fashion styles for each show, but in her new collection, she reduced the number to only 18. "The current situation forces me to try to subtract and get rid of the extra content," she told Robb report. Sharpening basic knowledge, refining and refining, these are very useful. It all points in one direction, and that's where I want to set the tone for this series: simplicity, calm, lightness. "

Dior's childhood in Africa

All one's life is searching for the lost childhood. Kim Jones has been closely associated with Africa since he was a child. His father, a Hydrogeologist, traveled to Ethiopia, Kenya, Botswana and Ghana with his father who studied groundwater in the African continent during his childhood. Since he became the creative director of Dior men's wear in 2018, he has invited different artists to collaborate in his quarterly releases, especially looking for African artists who can integrate culture, art and clothing. It wasn't until 2019 that he met the works of the Ghanaian artist amoako boafo in the Lubell family collection in Miami, and he finally found what he had always wanted.

Amoako boafo's portraits run through every detail of the new series. The preview invitation for Dashu is an artist's portrait of a bright eyed young man in an Ivy print shirt that inspired Kim Jones's new collection this season. Kim Jones transformed the high saturation color clothing of the characters in the artist's works into exquisite and gorgeous men's clothing through Dior's exquisite clothing making skills. The wide belt, leather beret, knitting and even the head close-up of portraits in amoako boafo's works are also absorbed as the theme elements of the new series, which skillfully render a unique style of exquisite and dynamic avant-garde.

Although the current Paris digital men's wear week is still full of experimental feeling, and major brands are also carefully feeling the stone across the river, we know that the historical pattern of fashion week is no longer the same. All this is not only a change in the schedule of a fashion show, but also a change in the values of the whole industry.

On the other hand, short videos and short videos can be used to adjust the mode of fashion designers. On the other hand, short videos can be used to adjust the environment of fashion designers Foreign cooperation offers more possibilities. And designers have been awakened again. They really realize that the focus of fashion shows is no longer to show new styles for the next season for a few people to comment or consume, but to export valuable brand ideas to consumers through content.

Just like a huge ship floating on the sea, many people's hard work or determined innovation only hope that it will return to the right track as soon as possible. Although this season's digital fashion week still has a raw and immature side, it still reflects the fashion industry's efforts to find a way out under the new normal of epidemic prevention and control. Perhaps, the most moving scenery of fashion week is not the gorgeous clothes from the beginning to the end. The real beauty belongs to every busy figure who works hard in front of the stage and behind the scenes.